Alain Ducasse is one of the world’s most decorated chefs, and above all, an aesthete and artisan of living and eating well. Known not only for his incomparable French cuisine, Monsieur Ducasse has created innovative dining experiences reflecting international influences, and consequently earned a reputation for phenomenal cuisine. “The produce is the only truth. A turbot without a stroke of genius will always rise above having genius without a turbot. A produce, grown with love and respect, has an incomparable flavour. Without it, a chef is nothing” – this is the ars poetica of the star chef who has numerous fine dining restaurants around the globe. Last year we have visited the spectacular rooftop restaurant of the National Museum of Qatar. Beside Jiwan there is an other one in Doha with a different conception: IDAM is located in the Museum of Islamic Art – now is under reconstraction. In London Monsiuer Ducasse chose the famous luxury hotel The Dorchester and he was right!
The Dorchester, Dorchester’s Collection is an iconic London property, is situated at the heart of Mayfair on Park Lane. The hotel offers guests a selection of 250 suites and rooms including three penthouse suites, many affording expansive views of Hyde Park. Some of London’s top dining is available to guests at The Dorchester including, three Michelin starred Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester serving contemporary French cuisine. The hotel provides an unabashed celebration of opulence in décor. Designed by duo Jouin Manku, who collaborated on Ducasse Paris projects in Paris, Monaco and Las Vegas, the restaurant draws inspiration from the greenery of Hyde Park nearby and the fashion flair of Mayfair, succeeding in merging tradition with modernity.
The dining room is contemporary, soft and elegant, showcasing the unadorned beauty of natural materials such as leather, wood and fabrics to an amazing effect. Reminiscent of an informal English garden, the interior presents a bold, luxurious palette of green and charcoal grey, set against carefully considered atmospheric lighting and the delicate materiality of luminous brass highlights. The design also includes quirky elements such as walls studded with thousands of silk buttons in different shades of green. The jewel of the restaurant is the stunning ‘Table Lumière’, a semi-private room from 2 to 7 people cocooned by a luminescent graduated oval curtain, inspired by traditional couture techniques, in homage to the world leading fashion houses of Mayfair, the table is surrounded by 4,500 shimmering fiber-optics which drop dramatically from the ceiling, cleverly allowing guests to enjoy the ambiance and buzz of the restaurant whilst being nearly screened from view. Table Lumière enables you and your guests to create your bespoke dining experience and tailor your table setting by choosing your desired Hermès Collection from ‘Rhythm Rouge’, ‘Mesclun’, ‘Century’ and ‘Fil d’Argent’. The collections also include the finest creations in tableware: Puiforcat silverware, table ornaments and Saint-Louis glassware. The epitome of French craftsmanship.
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester is characterised by its elegant French contemporary haute-cuisine, with distinctive fresh flavours and executed with a light and surprising twist – reflecting its London location. Alain Ducasse’s approach to cuisine is interpreted by a team led by the characterful style of Executive Chef Jean-Philippe Blondet. The technical brilliance of French cuisine – with a focus on the sauces – is brought to life through the finest seasonal produce, sourced at their peak, from British and French suppliers. Signature dishes include the “Sauté gourmand” of lobster, truffled chicken quenelles and homemade pasta; the Dry aged beef, artichoke and bone marrow and the indulgent Baba like in ‘Monte-Carlo‘.
We had the pleasure to taste the menu a month ago. After the bread selection and the starters (a stuffed Italian style pasta and a sesame based finger food) the amuse bouche was a hand-dived sea scallop with cauliflower, citrus and caviar, plating with crab scissors. The first dish looked like a gift box in the aquatic world. The marinated sea bass with green meat radish, pistachio, samphire and Sichuan pepper was a true excitement for every sense: the eyes, the tongue and even the taste buds. The next one was like an extravagant painting: the lobster medallion was paired with chicken quenelles, Périgord truffle, and yes, the homemade semolina pasta was amazing. And it was followed another sea inspired dish: the line-caught turbot with Jerusalem artichoke, sunflower seeds and tarragon. And then came our favourite: the saddle of venison paired perfectly with the Kalibos cabbage and pumpkin. After the main course we tried three different French cheeses before the pear based palate cleanser. The visual highlight of the dinner for us was the dessert: the Mont Blanc, a chestnut and yuzu flavoured cake. But this was not the end of the sweets! There were two petit four’s: the first one contained three types of small cakes creating the atmosphere of a Parisian patisserie. The second one was a selection of the famous Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse. They have stores as well, even in London and Paris. Let’s have a look, who is responsible for this experience!
Born in Nice, on the French Riviera, Jean-Philippe Blondet, has been working alongside Alain Ducasse for over a decade. His first role with Alain Ducasse was interestingly at Spoon at Sanderson in London, before joining 3-Michelin starred Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse at l’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco. Before returning to London, Jean-Philippe held the position of Sous-Chef at Spoon in Hong Kong, further adding to his international experience and satisfying his curiosity and interest in cuisines of the world. In September 2013, he joined the team at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester as Sous-Chef with Jocelyn Herland to quickly progress to Head Chef within 2 years. Jean-Philippe Blondet became Executive Chef in January 2016. Jean-Philippe interprets Alain Ducasse’s cuisine in London in a contemporary and refined way. In keeping with Alain Ducasse’s philosophy, the ingredients are the key elements. Jean-Philippe only uses the freshest and most seasonal produce, strictly sourced for their quality and provenance, and now he shares with us a few secrets about the how hew works and the upcoming menu.
What was your main inspiration when you created the menu?
My inspiration comes from either child memories or my roots of South of France and also seasonal vegetables. I like to collaborate with our suppliers so that they can provide unique pieces for the restaurant. For example, the Kalibos cabbage we use from our supplier in Cornwall is specifically grown for us.
Which are your favourite dishes from the menu and why are they so special for you?
I have no favourite. I like to change the menu very regularly and create new dishes.
You are a part of the prominent, Alain Ducasse Restaurants. How are you different from your sister-restaurants?
The restaurants are all driven by the values and philosophy. The twist comes from the people orchestrating the symphony. We have the luck to be surrounded with team members of different backgrounds and cultures. Everyone is an added value to the creation and service to our guests.
What about the food presentation/plating? Are there any elements which reflect your personal style?
When creating a dish, I always start the garnish and only add the protein at the end. For the garnish, I only use 2 to 3 ingredients maximum but they are all prepared in a different way. For the plating, I only would like to see unique pieces. This is why, we are teaching chefs from all levels the plating of our dishes. They will each bring something special to the plates.
What about the future? Do you have any ideas now for your upcoming menu?
Spring is now here! It is my favourite season. We start to have asparagus, broccoletti, peas… I am already working on our next dishes!
Photos: PR (Food Story Media), The Gentleman’s Review
29th of March, 2022
