le39V is a natural heaven of peace overlooking the rooftops of Paris of the 6th floor of a Haussmann building on Avenue George V, deep in the capital’s “golden triangle”. The story of the restaurant began on a fine day in September 2010 and in October 2021 it was reopened. The new space oozes warmth and goodwill with sharp cookery that respects nature and mankind. Frédéric Vardon’s dishes are deeply rooted in classic French cuisine with an exciting twist and elevated by the best produce he selects whilst on his many trips visiting different regions.

le39V is more than a restaurant; This cosy culinary house nestled on the Parisian rooftops is a unique, indulgent, comfortable and warm space. Frédéric Vardon wants everybody to feel at home here so he makes sure his guests get a warm and honest welcome. “I want an easy-going and friendly ‘landlord’ vibe that’s all about creating bonds.” His dishes come from the heart. Authentic, honest, sustainable and true to French culinary traditions, the dishes are simple but tasty. The committed chef does this all for his guests and staff. It’s all about the flavour. The chef has a passion for what nature does best, showcases it in all its glory and puts seasonal produce in the spotlight: Cap Gris-Nez crab, chickpeas, confit lemon and kombu; house-smoked Crisenon trout, kimchi, horseradish.

The menu puts a fresh twist on the classics, dishes such as Blin’s famous “macaroni”, Beaufort and truffle; sustainably-caught wild fish with artichoke, parsley and vin jaune sauce or grilled urchins, samphire and shellfish, lovage garnish. Not forgetting the classic pedigree beef, Dauphine potatoes and peppercorn sauce. As for desserts, the restaurant uses as little extra sugar as possible; to take us on a tour of le39V’s signature soufflés (chocolate, fruit, lemon, etc.); end-of-season raspberries drenched in Indian summer sun with liquorice and an allumette crisp; rice pudding-style oats, fresh grape and raisin jam in fortified wine, oat/liquorice ice cream, oat milk sauce; plum with black rice, N. Berger chocolate and angelica; and not forgetting the dessert tray’s delights.

Most of the dishes are also available as small plates or appetisers. There are surprises galore too with “off the menu” regional gems: aged rib eye; seasonal game; a fabulous king crab pot to share, spit-roasted sea bass for 3-4 and more. “I’m wholeheartedly committed to responsible cooking and I always strive to cook what nature gives us when it’s at its ripest. It’s high time we all saw the bigger picture and respected biodiversity. I’ve had everything from production methods to supplies and waste management in place for years and committed le39V to a sustainable vision. It’s my duty as a citizen.” – says Chef Vardon. Sourcing the best produce ties into the restaurant’s ethical philosophy of using local producers and tracing the product’s origins. There’s a focus on understanding the relationship between environment and production with a focus on animal welfare from birth to slaughter. The chefs at le39V are committed to eco-friendly cookery to do good for the planet and taste good diner as well.

le39V has been designed and dressed by the designer Raphaël Navot. The restaurant floats like a cloud in the sky with a wonderful sense of harmony breezing through it. As soon as you arrive at the building, the sliding door opens to unveil a cosy setting with two magical boudoirs. Then you wander down an almost secret corridor to the private wood-clad lift to take the smooth ride up to the Paris rooftops on the 6th floor. The large window walls flood the dining room with natural light and are a feast for the eyes. The Zimbabwe flamed granite floor melts into end-grained timber parquet, carved like butcher blocks by Oscar Ono, as the incredible bar rises up from the floor with its padded textured vault. Guests can enjoy the scene of the incredible terrace from the Tajmall stone bar tables. Your eyes are drawn to the ever-impressive glass wine celar home to over 2000 bottles just a few steps away. 3 steps take you into the main semi-circular dining
room that unfurls into a “culinary arena” with semi-spheric walls that carve out 4 social areas.

The muted space is an architectural gem that oozes sleek design: solid oak tables made by Maison Lefrançois, chairs and armchairs designed by Walter Knoll, bespoke curvaceous and cosy banquettes embellished by Maison Gohard standing against textured blue-grey walls on wooden flooring. Wings drop from the ceiling to create a sense of plush intimacy. Each and every detail is in perfect and natural harmony. The entire space puts premium materials and organic shapes centre stage with wood the star of the show supported by silk, velvet and sheer fabrics. The bespoke textiles are the ultimate in sophistication. Whether they come from Rubelli or are woven by the artist Pietro Seminelli, they are part of the natural dialogue. The textile folds are like stainedglass windows that filter and mute strong light. The handmade pieces not only exude elegance but also muffle sound. The arena and its views overlooking the kitchen kiss the sky to create a private setting that elevates the splendour of craftsmanship and French expertise.

“The restaurant’s shape is what initially sparked my imagination. This round shape, like a floating UFO… Naturally, the concept shifted and in the end we went with a futuristic feel. I wanted to create a timeless, very organic and earthy world like nowhere else. I wanted the space to be surprising and intriguing, somewhere you feel alive, relaxed and pampered.”–  says interior designer Raphaël Navot. All the French attention to detail and bespoke features are drenched in daylight whilst the warm and light hues exude an overwhelming sense of warmth. The curves beautifully balance the space so everyone feels frozen in time without a care in the world. The sophisticated tableware is true to the venue and dishes: elegant and indulgent. Each piece has been selected and designed especially for le39V. The most renowned artisans were hand-picked to elevate the solid wood tables. The delicate yet stylish tableware in china, glass or wood may be a motley crew but it owns its signature glamour. Haute couture plates celebrating nature by Demoiselles d’Anjou join  china plates designed by Hortense Montarnal that are more organic, understated and soft to allow the chef’s imagination to run wild. The crystal stemware by Sydonios showcases the wine suggestions for food pairings. The cutlery is silverplated by EBH in Nice, the steak knives come from Philippe Chambriard and the china is designed by Maison Fragile.

The bar certainly makes its presence felt as soon as you step into le39V. It’s softly coated in a wood-covered textured vault making it the perfect place to unwind and indulge in the latest creations. The menu is a recipe for success when it comes to keeping everyone happy with anything from the indulgent to the exotic. The wide selection of house cocktails includes fresh twists on classics as well as exclusive tipples by their mixologists. A cocktail to suit every palate. An infused cranberry juice, an apple and cucumber cocktail or the Martini and tonic-based Floréal served with pansies and dehydrated oranges. If you prefer something with a bit of oomph, try the candied lemon and tequila Alchimiste. The bar’s original creations celebrate nature with house fruit and vegetable juices that are made to order or Patrick Font’s sugar-free products. The sodas and tonics are all 100% natural and sourced direct from the famous London Essence Company.

The restaurant’s 47 seats naturally open onto a stunning hanging garden on the Paris rooftops through the huge sliding window walls. The garden is designed like a ship’s bow with a floating 100 year old olive tree at the top, capturing the beauty of nature and the elements. Its sprawling banquette, teak wood and muted beige tones create a breath-takingly sophisticated setting. Away from the capital’s hustle and bustle, this unique, peaceful and comfortable garden is a place where visitors can drink in panoramic views of the kitchen and bar as they sip a sparkling Grand Cru de Champagne, colourful cocktail, espresso or siphon coffee.

Frédéric Vardon is the son of butchers/caterers and was born in Flers. He’d hop into his father’s small van at dawn on Wednesday mornings to drive to the Paris and Rungis markets when he was little. He spent all his holidays in the fields between Vire and Tinchebray at his grandparents’ farm where he drew water from the well. His childhood nurtured his palate and love for hard work. “Respect the product and its producers isn’t a slogan; it’s a lesson. From an early age, I wanted to do something good to inspire people” – he says. He knew he wouldn’t be a butcher or farmer; he was destined to be a chef but would never forget his roots. He trained with Jean-Pierre Morot-Gaudry then Alain Dutournier in Paris before working with Alain Chapel in Mionnay. The experience sealed his fate before joining Alain Ducasse for a long companionship and unfailing bond. “Alain Ducasse is still the salt of the earth with a memory for flavour and boundless curiosity.” The pioneer of “naturality” took Frédéric Vardon on globe-trotting adventures – everywhere from Paris and London to Tokyo, Hong Kong and Carthage – for over 14 years and opening the Spoon eateries. The experience saw him build on his solid foundations in French and far-flung cuisine to fine-tune his art. The years he spent with the three Alains made him who he is now. He hand-picks all the producers and farmers for both their quality and local roots. “I don’t have suppliers, I have accomplices with good produce to make good food” – he likes to say.

Photos: PR / Yann Deret (interiors, exterior, portrait and petit four), The Gentleman’s Review (food)
24rd of April, 2022
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